“Seeing is believing”- I have always been a firm believer in this particular saying, and found it to be particularly true on a recent trip to Bahla. It was here that one had an opportunity to see at close quarters what the famous Bahla pottery was all about and realizing that it truly was “one of a kind” in the Sultanate of Oman.
Located just about two hours’ drive away from Muscat, and 40kms ahead of Nizwa, the ancient walled city of Bahla is an intriguing and interesting place, with many things, people and places, all just waiting to be discovered. With it’s beautiful winding roads, fertile land, with a wide variety of green plants, and even more interestingly, the famous Bahla fort, that has been declared a UNESCO site, there is a lot that one can actually see and do in Bahla. With a small population of around 60,000 and 46 separate villages, it has a ‘timeless’ air about it, and one that you can actually feel and savour, almost as soon as you get there.
Not yet really a majorly recommended tourist attraction, those interested in archaeology and history, will find that it’s well worth a visit. It is believed to be one of the oldest inhabited regions in Oman, and archaeologists have found many artefacts dating as far back as back the third century BC. It was historically a strategic stop-over on the old trading route from Muscat to other parts of the Arabian Peninsula.
Enclosed by a protective, fortified wall that stretches for about 10 km around the town, Bahla is characterized by it’s many winding roads. In fact, some of these are so narrow that you may even have to pull over to let an on-coming vehicle pass. And that in fact, adds to the quaint charm.
Although large sections of the wall are still standing, parts of it are in ruins and are proposed be reconstructed in the near future. Whether you choose to explore Bahla on foot or by car, you are bound to find an interesting and eclectic balance of the old and the new. In addition there are numerous date plantations close by, many of which can be used as functional picnic spots.
One of the more intriguing aspects of Bahla, and one that is firmly believed by many Omanis, is that Bahla was once renowned for various types of ‘black’ as well as ‘white’ magic. Now of course, you can choose to believe this or not, but the merest hint of sorcery and magic is enough to make many a person excited about what any place really is about. Some people believe that these spells are still available in Bahla.
Pottery
More than anything, Bahla is truly famous for it’s pottery, since many many years. In fact, the Bahla Oasis is considered an ancient pottery centre. Bahla pottery was very popular and the archeologists have dedicated a special technique, known as the ‘Bahla Pottery Technique’ in order to distinguish it from the other types of local or imported pottery within Oman. The archeologists trace this pottery to identify the cultural connections between the centers of old civilization. This industry remains popular even until this date, and in fact, the Bahla Oasis is one of few locations, where the pottery industry has retained it’s original style and characteristics from the early Islamic Period till date.
We came upon a very interesting pottery making factory, situated right in the heart of Bahla. Called ‘Abdullah Bin Hamdan Al Adwi Trading’, it gave us a true insight into what ‘Bahla pottery’ is all about. According to him, mud for the pots is collected from an area about two kms away. It is then mixed with two different kinds of mud and then treated with water for getting the required consistency. The actual work of making the pots then begins after the mixture has been passed through a machine which results in the right consistency for working with it. Once on the potter’s wheel, it is shaped according to the requirement and then the work of decoration and other ornamentation completed. We were intrigued to find out that the entire work is done by hand, including all the ornamentation
A very interesting talk with Abul Qasim, the pottery maker at the factory revealed that once the pots are shaped, and formed, the pots are put for baking at a temperature of twelve hundred degrees for five hours. They then need an additional three days for drying. It is only when they are finally tested and checked by their own ‘quality control’ procedure that they are then certified as ‘fit for sale’.
As always, the famed ‘Omani hospitality’ came to the fore-front, and we were pleasantly surprised when dates and ‘Kahwa’ were offered to us. And of course, no-one could refuse such a welcome refreshment !
Happy after that we browsed through the pots on sale, and after picking up a few momentoes, we were on our way.
Enlightened, happy, and contented……
A very interesting talk with Abul Qasim, the pottery maker at the factory revealed that once the pots are shaped, and formed, the pots are put for baking at a temperature of twelve hundred degrees for five hours. They then need an additional three days for drying. It is only when they are finally tested and checked by their own ‘quality control’ procedure that they are then certified as ‘fit for sale’.
As always, the famed ‘Omani hospitality’ came to the fore-front, and we were pleasantly surprised when dates and ‘Kahwa’ were offered to us. And of course, no-one could refuse such a welcome refreshment !
Happy after that we browsed through the pots on sale, and after picking up a few momentoes, we were on our way.
Enlightened, happy, and contented……
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